I’ve been in Akumal a few days now and have written roughly three poems. The path is uncertain, but I’m on my way. A part of what I want to share on this blog is my process of poeming, as well as my plans. Here at the residency, with the other artists and the director, we’ve been talking a lot about day trips we want to take, and Cenote Dos Ojos has come up over and over again. I’ve stabbed at–and never quite gotten right–a poem about the time my ex-boyfriend and I saved a shirtless field worker who’d been bitten by a venomous snake outside of the cenote. It was a wild, unexpected day (Oh, but isn’t that Mexico!?), and one I hope to translate into a successful poem while working here.

A large part of my writing process is isolation, quietude, and music. I use the music to set the mood, which helps me find the nook in my brain where I can access memories, thoughts, and feelings. So as you might guess with this manuscript, there’s a lot of sad songs, but also some funkier Caribbean jams, for good measure.

I had a romantic disappointment right before leaving Boston, which has affected my mood just a little, but already I’m utilizing those emotions for the manuscript. Below are some of the songs currently inspiring me here in my first week in Akumal. Enjoy!

I’ve been discovering the town in bits and pieces, and had the chance to visit the farmer’s market yesterday. I was a little hungover after my overconsumption of Sol and Noche Buena beer upon our arrival to the residency, but as my friend Jacquie tells me, I’m a bon vivant.

When in paradise, why not laughing gas?

One of the things I’m most looking forward to while back in the Riviera Maya is going back to Tulum, and going back to Mint Bar, where the drinks are good and the laughing gas is plenty.

Located in the center of Tulum pueblo, on route 307, on the same side as Flor de Michoacan, and a few doors up from it, there’s a small green entryway to the upstairs Mint Bar den.

This place is a perfect way to cap off your night in Tulum pueblo, and was a lot of fun.

Check out the video below to see my fumbling attempts at ballooned nitrous:

Nitrous got us like:

Last week I was notified that I’d been selected as a writer in residence at the Akumal International Artist Residency! I am beyond thrilled. Having spent zero time in Akumal I’m looking forward to falling in love with it the way I have with Tulum, its southerly neighbor.

I’ll be heading to Mexico in late January, where I’ll reside for six weeks while finishing my manuscript, Island of Swallows. I’ll be blogging regularly from Akumal while living at the residency, so please add your email to the bar on the right for the latest updates on Mexico, poetry, and what I’m up to.

I’m incredibly excited to be going on yet another journey to my beloved Mexico, and invite you all to join me on this endeavor!

More dispatches soon.

Pardon my hiatus from Loose Gringa!

Mars’ continual retrograding has caused me massive technological glitches, but I think — cross fingers — things are better now.

And it’s summer, and at the end of this July I’ll have marked a huge TWO YEARS since my epic move to the Yucatan. It seems like yesterday, and yet, and yet…

While I was in Mexico the last time, staying at Tulum’s wonderful Azulik, I invested myself in really scouring the local shopping scene. Tulum has pretty much been colonized by the chic set, so pricier boutiques are popping up alongside Tulum’s handicrafts market.

Below is my hit list of must-sees for those on and off a budget.

Splurge: Coqui Coqui

Not my finest hour at this uber-popular boutique hotel/spa/restaurant/perfumer, as I proceeded to knock down a massive display of jewelry. (At least I didn’t freak out at spying Kim Gordon in a yoga pose on the beachfront!) The shopgirl was less than enthused with us already, and even snootier after my clumsiness. No, the staffers aren’t the nicest, but the boutique is worth your while if you’re into hard-to-find, cult perfumes, which I am.

Now with three locations — Tulum, Coba, and Valladolid — Coqui Coqui has staked an empire in Mexico’s beauty and hotel industry, which is why tons of celebrities make their way through here.

I’d visited Coqui Coqui years ago in Tulum, but regretfully never bit the bullet on one of their scents. This time was different. Their rosas secas perfume drew me in, while my shopping partner opted for the tabaco; but the lovely Coco-Coco fragrance is suntan lotion meets coconut meets youthful misty beach memories, and a bestseller. I got the candle in Coco-Coco and light it during the winter. Perfection. Candles are around $50, if I remember, and perfumes top off around $80. One of a kind jewelry, clothing, and accessories can also be had here, if you’re operating with some mega bucks.

Tip: Coqui Coqui is across from delicious, amazing, must-go Hartwood. So shop first, and have the best meal of your life.

Save: Plastic Flamingo

Situated in a dirt lot in an airstream bus, Plastic Flamingo boasts the kind of kitschy look and goods that are a breath of fresh air against Tulum’s wallet-crushing hotels and stores. Screenprinted t-shirts, jewelry, and other knickknacks can be found here — all made locally and by hand and with a Mexican flair.

Splurge: Posada Margherita

This boutique hotel/restaurant is a fantastic option for staying or dining, and they have a small boutique off the restaurant, to boot.

Filled with bikinis, gauzy dresses, creams and potions, and perfumes by model Leilani Bishop, this mid-priced boutique is sparse, but smartly curated. I wanted everything! Definitely worth a browse on your walk by, or after your breakfast, which Posada Margherita does so well.

The view at Posada Margherita

Splurge: Mr. Blackbird

A tiny beachfront shop (also beside Coqui Coqui and Hartwood) but THE place for gorgeous jewelry. I wanted EVERYTHING.

Photo stolen from Mr. Blackbird’s Facebook page!

 Save: Mixik

Mixik is my favorite place to shop in Tulum. Bike or drive to Tulum’s center and you’ll undoubtedly stumble onto this shop featuring every Mexican handicraft you can image. From notebooks, matchbooks, mirrors, and more emblazoned with Frida Kahlo’s face, to lucha libre masks, to Dia de los Muertos jewelry, to rugs, blankets, home goods, dreamcatchers and more, this place has EVERYTHING and it’s all crafted in Mexico. The prices are totally fair, and you’ll walk away with gifts for all your friends and money left over for lunch, and maybe something for you, too.

Where’s your favorite place to shop in Tulum!?

There are some places that — no matter how artsy or what kind of camera you have — just cannot be captured accurately. Azulik is like that.

Yes, that is an OUTDOOR BATHTUB.

When Marco, the front desk extraordinaire, first showed me my room, my mouth was agape. Then I was squealing. Was this my life?

Located on Boca Paila, Tulum’s beachfront road, Azulik is a hotel with entirely no electricity. Their focus is on nature, enjoying the surroundings, and it’s hard not to do just that when you’re there. (You can charge your phone at one plug in the room, at certain times of night, but otherwise you’re best bet is the front desk, where there’s plugs a plenty and the wifi is strongest.)

Azulik is simple — complimentary breakfast is served every morning, consisting of mostly pastries, toast and jams, fresh fruit, and plenty of coffee — but special. It truly is a place to go to feel removed from the world, any outside pressures, and just relax. I’ve experienced no other place quite like it.

Taking daily baths was one of the highlights of my stay. It really slowed me down and calmed me. I would return again tomorrow, if I could.

As you can see, Azulik is muy romantic. Go with your partner. There’s no showers, just bathtubs. It’s fabulous.

Here’s my tips for your stay at Azulik:

• Lots of reading material; little wifi means that it’s book time, and reading in bed via flashlight is so pioneer of you!
• Keep an open mind. Azulik’s beach is clothing optional. Lots of German scrotum to upset you, or not. Bare it all or just enjoy, but leave the snark behind!
• Rent a bike. Azulik is within a reasonable riding distance to the ruins.
• Go to Mateo’s. Azulik is close to two great bars, one of which is Mateo’s. Their fish tacos are truly good, if a bit pricey. The chile margaritas are TO. DIE. FOR. Puro Corazon is beside Mateo’s, and both feature live music, both are laid back, with delicious food. There was something about Mateo’s that made me like it more, but both were great, and within walking distance to Azulik.
• Go to Hartwood. It’s down Boca Paila, almost to the biosphere. We met two foodie friends at the front desk and they’d never heard of the place, so we invited them along. It turned out to be a dining experience to remember, and one of the best meals of our life. Everything is the freshest, and the waiters are superb eye candy.